It’s been a long time since my last travel post—I believe it was Stockholm in February 2021. This feels familiar yet slightly out of tune, so bear with me till I find my footing in this again.

We landed in Rovaniemi on a Sunday, chasing northern lights and that deep Finnish calm I crave after Dublin’s grey. Six days unfolded like a slow exhale: husky meets (no rides), forest horse treks, and plunges into ice that tested my cold therapy limits. Short sunlit hours from 10am to 4pm, endless starry nights. Here’s my unhurried take on what made it unforgettable, for anyone plotting a Lapland winter itinerary.

Must-Dos, My Way

Arktikum Museum: Start here for Arctic soul—history, Sami culture, polar life lessons. Open daily 10-18, €22 adults, family tickets €54. It’s the quiet primer before you chase the wild.

Northern Lights Hunt: Book a guaranteed tour via GetYourGuide if time’s short—most guarantee aurora spotting, meaning you don’t pay unless you see them or you get to go out twice to catch them. We rented a car as we were traveling as a family; it just made more sense, plus I wanted to hunt the auroras myself. I’ll share some top spots to catch them and stuff to keep an eye on if you’re going for a hunt on your own (see Aurora Hunting section below).

Arctic Circle Husky Park at Santa Claus Village: €10 entry, pure joy meeting the packs. Ethical experiences only so no rides for this animal lovers.

Santa Claus Village: This is very commercial but the top touristic spot for Rovaniemi. If you are traveling with kids, I’m sure they will enjoy this village as it is a living breathing Xmas scene. There is something for everyone inside—even if you are just walking around for an hour or two, you get to see a lot. Huskies and reindeers are some of these; you get to see the reindeers when you are walking by, and I don’t recommend the rides.

Arctic Bath & Sauna at Apukka: 150% yes. My Dublin plunges prepped me, but this lake bit harder—1.5 minutes max vs. my usual 3-4. Pure zen: sauna, ice dip, silence. Grabbing a brandy or cognac from the bar before starting the Arctic journey is highly recommended. Saunas boost circulation, ease muscle tension, and promote relaxation, while cold plunges reduce inflammation, improve mood via endorphin release, and build mental resilience—perfect combo for winter recovery.

Winter Wonderland Horseback: Ranch Kulas’ 2-hour mountain ride felt like Narnia. Adorable horses, mystic trail tales, animal-friendly magic. Layer up as it gets very cold up in the mountains, but worth the freezing.

Ranua’s Arctic Wildlife Park: Wildlife in semi-wild setup—winter thins the crowd, but bears, arctic foxes, wolves, and lynx still shine. It’s Europe’s northernmost zoo with 200+ species adapted to cold; ethical efforts include vast enclosures mimicking natural habitats and conservation breeding programs. Great for close-up views without exploitation.

Aurora Hunting

Top 5 Spots: Ounasvaara (this is where we caught our first one, easy access, low light pollution), Olkkajärvi, Vaattunkiköngäs, Vikaköngäs Accessible Trail (which was accessible from our hotel we were able to see auroras 2 nights in a row here).

What to Check: Use apps like Aurora Alerts or SpaceWeatherLive for Kp index (3+ ideal), clear skies, new moon phases. Avoid full moon washout; check local forecasts for cloud cover.

Photo Tips: Wide-angle lens, tripod, manual mode (ISO 800-3200, f/2.8, 10-20s exposure). Turn off car headlights, stay away from city lights.

Survival Secrets

1. Hand/foot warmers from groceries—one pack lasts a day, essential for walks.

2. Layer fearlessly: wool/cashmere socks (double up), beanie, scarf.

3. Chase sun 10-4pm when being outside.

4. You get pretty tired after a day; it is the cold and white, so expect good sleep.

Rovaniemi in 6 days was a nice pace for us. We had time to just reset and relax—go for hikes, see touristic bits, get lost in the museum. Experienced some local grocery shopping as well; one of my favourite things to do is grocery shopping to see the difference.